Birke, beech and CO. belong to the most wash and wear wood in the garden, because you do not need to be cut in principle. But also for this rule there are exceptions, about if branches obstruct the adjoining property or traffic-disturbing on road and ways exceed. Similarly as with the fruit tree cut it is advisable however, inward increasing, to depart crossing branches approx. 2 cm before the trunk or main branch work. Thus a healthy structure of the crown of tree is supported. Edition branch shears with pulling cut and force translation by Doppelhebel are here demanded. Point makes cut branch work still reliably to 5 cm diameters. , Springy branches unloading far for there are bar shears for some years according to the branch shears principle. In connection with sturdy telescope seaweeds and push pull cable reach you safely without leader, gumption heights up to 5 meters. Starting from a branch strength of approx. 5 cm one uses favorably the pruning saw with adjustable saw blade. Like that also with difficulty accessible places for the clean sawing cut are attainable. Thick branches first from downside around a third ansägen, then the cut from above terminate. Thus you prevent a peeling of the crust off when falling down the branch. If must be cut, this should in no case during the Austriebs or the main growth period happen. The most favorable gumption date lies in the months November to February attention: Maple, cherry and Birke stand already in January in the saft. For this reason the interface must be treated with an agent for free bruises with these trees. Would like  They your deciduous trees already in the summer cut, then you settle this on best from at the end of July to at the beginning of of Septembers. At this time no more danger exists to injure the sensitive impulses. With older trees occasionally to the surface, approaches house or way surfaces steps being rooted hurry. With heavy, forged branch shears you can without heistation cut this being rooted hurry within the surface range of the soil. The interface something with earth cover.

Ornamental shrubs, which flower in the summer and autumn, are rather deeply cut in March. The erforene wood with branch shears is removed. Let us note ask that there are bloom bushes, which flower at one year’s and at two-year branches. Wood of their branches in the garden their bloom-beautiful one year’s makes, may after the bloom be cut, the others not.

To the spring-flowering wood well-known Ziersträucher belongs such as hard bolts, Zierkir and Zierpflaume, Forsythien, Schneeball and Weigelyen, as well as Flieder, broom, Zierjohannisbeeren and Deutzyen, in order to call only the most important. They all form their Blütenknospen already in the course of the Sommers.Frühjahrsblüher cut you at the best right after for the bloom. Who missed this date, can the cut also in the winter retrieve. However it is to be noted then that only the old, dry wood with branch shears are cut out here or each impulses are removed, which rub kruezen and. Which the gardner as " old Holz" designated, you recognize fast on a view. It has dark crust, while in this year the wood grown is from bright color. In principle all abgeblühten impulses up to some few should be removed at the outside side of the bush. So the recent impulses can unfold full.

Needle wood much less cut as leaves-throwing off wood. That is particularly valid for firs and spruces, for Hemlocktannen and all säulenförmig growing Koniferen. On the other hand need broad-increasing Wacholderarten, Eiben and jaws more frequently one cut with Krummholzkiefern can you even, without impairing growth and appearance, whole branch portions of the last 2-3 years to cut out. Naturally in regular consequence all resinous wood hedges and art forms, like balls pyramids, are cut animal shapes.

With cut of the beautiful Clematis it is to be noted that the spring-flowering sorts must be treated differently than the Sommerblüher. The Frühjahrsblüher is only expenditure-cleared in the spring, whereby the older strong wood must remain. A strong back cut does not constitute the Sommerblühern against it anything; with you can be cut even once into the older wood. To this group the most frequent Clematis sorts belong, like all so-called Jackmannii forms.

With cut of the beautiful Clematis it is to be noted that the spring-flowering sorts must be treated differently than the Sommerblüher. The Frühjahrsblüher is only expenditure-cleared in the spring, whereby the older strong wood must remain. A strong back cut does not constitute the Sommerblühern against it anything; with you can be cut even once into the older wood. To this group the most frequent Clematis sorts belong, like all so-called Jackmannii forms.

Climbing one or climbing ornamental shrubs usually needs no regular cut. Only if grew over hand takes, the shears go into action. Lianen, as Schlingenknöterich and Geißblatt, which do not form a trunk, can are also strongly back taken. Even a cut to short over the ground is possible, since they form immediately again meter for a long time impulses. With responsible Klimmern such as ivy and wild wine cutting the sharpening and side impulses off is sufficient, so that growth becomes not too sumptuous. By the masterforming Lianen, which flower only at the older wood, as for example Glyzinen and Baumwürger/Celastrus, simply the point is cut off. Nothing to search has against it the shears at the side wood of the Glyzinen, because the Blütenknospen form there; only after the bloom this wood is cut. All cut measures should be accomplished only after the winter. However you can in-shorten without damage for the plants in the summer on 2-3 Blütenknospen (=Augen).

Rhododendron and garden azaleas are not better at all cut. After the Abblühen you need to remove only the seed beginnings, which weaken the plants unnecessarily. Occasionally tapering of older bushes will be necessary. This cut should take place in the late winter, since one can already recognize and thus preserve the buds at this time. Little to search has the Gartenschere also with the charm nut, the Scheinhasel, the sand thorn and Hibiskus as well as the specialized technical and the Magnolie. One should let it grow after heart desire and only the dry branches remove.

With bushes the older parts die gradually, while from the root stick new impulses are formed. The blooms sit particularly at the well exposed places of the bush; on the inside one finds only few, usually miserable blooms. With a regular cut the appearance of the bush is not thus only improved, but also a rich and more beautiful bloom obtains. When cutting only all all this should be removed and be remained retained the natural form of the wood.