It&#x92;s the right time of year for baking whoopie.</p><p>If I have made you blush, rest assured what follows is a strictly G-rated affair.</p><p>Whoopie pies are an all-American baked good that looks like a puffed-up sandwich cookie but tastes more like a cupcake. Think cake with frosting that doesn&#x92;t get all over everything. </p><p> Just exactly where the titillating name came from is unclear, but anyone who grew up in the Northeast knows whoopie pies have long been lunchbox, bake sale and convenience store staples.</p><p>Whoopie pies trace their origins from both Pennsylvania, where they are sometimes called &#x93;gobs,&#x94; and Maine, where thousands attend an annual whoopie pie festival. Last year, Maine&#x92;s Legislature and the Pennsylvania Dutch Convention & Visitors Bureau got in a lover&#x92;s spat over paternity of the treat. Eventually the Maine Legislature settled for naming the whoopie pie the official state treat.</p><p>Amy Treadwell grew up in Massachussetts. When she moved to San Francisco, few souls in the food-forward city knew what a whoopie pie was, let alone a gob. But since she wrote &#x93;Whoopie Pies: Dozens of Mix &#x92;Em, Match &#x92;Em, Eat &#x92;Em Up Recipes&#x94; (Chronicle) in 2010, the sweet has caught on across the country. In fact, this year&#x92;s sales of the cookbook topped sales from the year it was released. </p><p>&#x93;Any mom-and-pop store had home-baked whoopie pies near the cash register, but now you&#x92;re seeing them at wedding dessert tables and parties,&#x94; says Treadwell, co-author of the cookbook with Sarah Billingsley. &#x93;I even saw four of them in a clear plastic clamshell at Trader Joe&#x92;s.&#x94;</p><p>While researching their book, the authors (also conveniently editors at Chronicle Books) discovered whoopie pies have other colorful monikers, such as scooter pies, chocolate drops, round dogs, cream cakes, moon pies and black moons. Whatever you call them, they have become an easy vehicle for delivering a variety of interesting flavor combinations. </p><p>The traditional whoopie pie is chocolate cake with a marshmallow filling. But thumb through &#x93;Gobba Gobba Hey&#x94; (Bloomsbury) by Steven Gdula, a transplanted western Pennsylvania native who sells his wares from a food cart in San Francisco, and you&#x92;ll find gourmet variations ranging from Strawberry Gobs With Strawberry Balsamic Filling to Persimmon and Mascarpone Gobs.</p><p>The most unusual flavor Treadwell has encountered?</p><p>Horchata, a drink popular in Spain and Mexico made by steeping nuts, grains and chufa, a tuberous root from Africa with a nutty flavor. But Treadwell and Billingsley came up with some mighty interesting fillings of their own, including root beer, maple-bacon and bacon-chive goat cheese.</p><p>&#x93;There are as many flavors of whoopie as would be any kind of cake or cupcake,&#x94; Treadwell says.</p><p>Whoopie pies are easy to make and require very little in the way of equipment. A stand mixer is extremely helpful, although you can also use a hand-held mixer or a spoon. The shape of the cookies varies depending on the recipe and whether you choose to use a pastry bag, scoop or a specialty whoopie pie pan.</p><p>&#x93;I&#x92;m a lazy baker,&#x94; Treadwell says. &#x93;I always spoon because I can&#x92;t be bothered to load up a pastry bag.&#x94;</p><p>Billingsley, however, prefers the pastry bag for perfectly round, equal size cakes. Piped frosting also gives a pretty, frilly edge.</p><p>&#x93;I haven&#x92;t tried the pan,&#x94; Treadwell says. &#x93;I think it gives a weird edge that looks strange to me, but I can&#x92;t argue with the convenience.&#x94;</p><p>In 2010, Wilton, the cake pan and decorating supply company, teamed up with Sur La Table to offer a whoopie pie pan with traditional round indentions. The beauty of the nonstick pan is that it knocks the fussy pastry bag out of the equation.</p><p>Nancy Siler, vice president of consumer affairs for Wilton, says the pan has been &#x93;wildly popular.&#x94; So popular that the company has developed a seasonal line of whoopie pie pans, including hearts, bunnies, pumpkins, stockings, Christmas trees and gingerbread boys.</p><p>&#x93;Whoopie pies are quirky, and the great thing is you can make a batch and have gift-ables for a number of people instead of a whole cake for one,&#x94; Siler says.</p><p>Wilton conducted a Facebook survey of 775 customers last February and found 77.2 percent planned to make Valentine&#x92;s treats for friends, co-workers, children and relatives, in addition to sweethearts. And, of course, Wilton encourages its customers to decorate to the hilt, which can be more difficult when the icing is inside. </p><p>&#x93;Obviously we decorate on top, but the perimeter of a whoopie pie also is a good place to decorate,&#x94; Siler says.</p><p>Which begs the question, if you put frosting on top of a whoopie pie, doesn&#x92;t it become a cupcake?</p><p>Decorating on top of whoopie pies is more common in the United Kingdom, where whoopie pies are making a splash. &#x93;It&#x92;s a big trend, and they&#x92;re selling really well in bakeries, but they embellish them a lot by putting more glazes on top of the whoopie pies and adding fruit to the fillings,&#x94; Treadwell says.</p><p>Siler suggests &#x93;zipping up&#x94; whoopie pies for Valentine&#x92;s Day with &#x93;red&#x94; themes, including red velvet and raspberry pies, or decorating the frosting perimeter with crushed peppermint, nonpareils and colored sugars. </p><p><hr></p><p><h3>Classic Chocolate Whoopie Pies With Buttercream Filling</h3></p><p></span></p><p><span class="howto_volume">Makes 12 pies (24 halves)</p><p></span></p><p><span class="howto_components">1&#8201;2/3 cup all-purpose flour</p><p>2/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder</p><p>1&#8201;1/2 teaspoons baking soda</p><p>1/2 teaspoon salt</p><p>4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature</p><p>4 tablespoons vegetable shortening</p><p>1 cup (packed) dark brown sugar</p><p>1 large egg</p><p>1 teaspoon vanilla extract</p><p>1 cup milk</p><p>Classic Buttercream Filling:</p><p>3 cups confectioners&#x92; sugar</p><p>1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter</p><p>3 to 4 tablespoons heavy whipping cream</p><p>1 teaspoon vanilla extract</p><p>Pinch of salt</p><p>Food coloring, optional</p><p>Decorating sprinkles, optional</p><p></span>Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.</p><p>Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda and salt onto a sheet of waxed paper. In the work bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together the butter, shortening and brown sugar on low speed until just combined. Increase the speed to medium and beat until fluffy and smooth, about 3 minutes. Add the egg and vanilla and beat for another 2 minutes.</p><p>Add half of the flour mixture and half of the milk to the batter and beat on low until just incorporated. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the remaining flour mixture and 1/2 cup milk and beat until completely combined.</p><p>Using a spoon, drop about 1 tablespoon of batter onto one of the prepared baking sheets and repeat, spacing them at least 2 inches apart. Bake one sheet at a time for about 10 minutes each, or until the pies spring back when pressed gently.</p><p>Remove from oven and let the cakes cool on sheet for about 5 minutes before transferring them to a rack to cool completely.</p><p> <span class="bold">For the filling: </span>In the work bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together the confectioners&#x92; sugar with the butter, starting on low and increasing with medium speed, until the mixture is crumbly, about 1 minute. Add the heavy cream, vanilla and salt and beat on high speed until smooth, about 3 minutes.</p><p> <span class="bold">To tint buttercream: </span>Add a few drops of red and stir until you get the shade of pink you desire. Roll pie in sprinkles, if desired. </p><p> <span class="bold">To assemble: </span>Spread filling with a knife and sandwich two cakes together, like a sandwich cookie.</p><p><span class="howto_facts">Per half pie: 215 calories (38 percent from fat), 9 grams total fat (5 grams saturated), 27 milligrams cholesterol, 32 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams protein, 94 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber.</p><p></span></p><p><hr></p><p><h3>Red Velvet Whoopie Pies With Cream Cheese Filling</h3></p><p><span class="howto_volume">Makes 12 pies (24 halves)</p><p></span></p><p><span class="howto_components">2&#8201;1/2&#8201; cups all-purpose flour</p><p>1/4 cup cocoa powder</p><p>1 teaspoon baking powder</p><p>1/2 teaspoon baking soda</p><p>1/2 teaspoon salt</p><p>1/2 cup (1 stick) butter</p><p>1/2 cup vegetable shortening</p><p>1/2 cup packed brown sugar</p><p>1 cup granulated sugar</p><p>2 large eggs</p><p>2 teaspoons vanilla extract</p><p>1/2 ounce (1 small bottle) red food coloring</p><p>1 cup buttermilk</p><p>Cream Cheese Filling:</p><p>4 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature</p><p>4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature</p><p>3&#8201;1/2 cups (one 16-ounce box) confectioners&#x92; sugar</p><p>1 teaspoon vanilla extract</p><p></span>Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.</p><p>Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda and salt onto a sheet of waxed paper.</p><p>In the work bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat together the butter, shortening and both sugars on low speed until just combined. Increase the speed to medium and beat until fluffy and smooth, about 5 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the vanilla and red food coloring and beat just until blended.</p><p>Add half the flour mixture and half of the buttermilk to the batter and beat on low until just incorporated. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the remaining flour mixture and 1/2 cup buttermilk and beat until completely combined.</p><p>Using a spoon, fill whoopie pie pan two-thirds full with batter and bake, then cool according to directions. Or drop about 1 tablespoon of batter onto one of the prepared sheets and repeat, spacing them at least 2 inches apart. Bake one sheet at a time for about 10 minutes each, or until the cakes spring back when pressed gently. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and let cakes cool on the sheet for about 5 minutes before transferring them to a rack to cool completely.</p><p> <span class="bold">For the filling: </span>In the work bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together the cream cheese and butter on medium speed. Add the sugar and beat on low speed until combined. Add the vanilla and increase the speed to medium; beat until creamy and smooth, about 4 minutes.</p><p> <span class="bold">To assemble: </span>Spread filling with a knife and sandwich two cakes together, like a sandwich cookie.</p><p><span class="howto_facts">Per half pie: 279 calories (40 percent from fat), 13 grams total fat (7 grams saturated), 39 milligrams cholesterol, 40 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams protein, 136 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber.</p><p><hr></p><p><h3>Lemon Whoopie Pies With Coconut Cream Filling</h3></p><p></span></p><p><span class="howto_volume">Makes 12 pies (24 halves)</p><p></span></p><p><span class="howto_components">2&#8201;1/4 cups all-purpose flour</p><p>1&#8201;1/2 teaspoons baking powder</p><p>1 teaspoon baking soda</p><p>4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature</p><p>4 tablespoons vegetable shortening</p><p>1/2 cup (packed) brown sugar</p><p>1/2 cup granulated sugar</p><p>2 large eggs</p><p>1/2 cup buttermilk</p><p>Grated zest of 1 lemon</p><p>2 tablespoons fresh-squeezed lemon juice</p><p>1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract</p><p>Coconut Cream Filling:</p><p>4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature</p><p>1&#8201;3/4 cups confectioners&#x92; sugar</p><p>3 tablespoons sweetened shredded coconut</p><p>2 tablespoons unsweetened shredded coconut</p><p>3 tablespoons coconut milk</p><p>1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract </p><p>Sweetened shredded coconut, optional garnish</p><p>Zest of 1 lemon, optional garnish</p><p></span>Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375 degrees.</p><p>Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt onto a sheet of waxed paper.</p><p>In the work bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together the butter, shortening and both sugars until light and creamy, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs and the buttermilk and beat until combined.</p><p>Add the lemon zest, lemon juice and vanilla and beat on medium for about 2 minutes, until completely combined.</p><p>Using a spoon, fill whoopie pie pans two-thirds full and bake according to recipe directions, or drop about 1 tablespoon of batter onto one of two baking sheets lined with parchment paper, spacing them at least 2 inches apart. Bake one sheet at a time for about 12 minutes each or until the cakes begin to brown. Remove from the oven and let the cakes cool on the sheet for at least 5 minutes before transferring to a rack to cool completely.</p><p> <span class="bold">For the filling: </span>In a work bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together the butter and sugar on low speed until combined. Add the coconuts, coconut milk and vanilla and beat on low until smooth, about 5 minutes.</p><p> <span class="bold">To assemble: </span>Spread filling with a knife and sandwich two cakes together, like a sandwich cookie.</p><p><span class="howto_facts">Per half pie: 176 calories (38 percent from fat), 8 grams total fat (4 grams saturated), 28 milligrams cholesterol, 27 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams protein, 96 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber....

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&#x93;Not a bad tune,&#x94; Fred Astaire says in &#x93;The Gay Divorcee&#x94; (1934), listening to the orchestra and watching the crowd beneath his balcony. &#x93;What is it?&#x94;</p><p> Ginger Rogers is there to supply the answer: &#x93;It&#x92;s the newest thing over here. It&#x92;s called &#x91;The Continental.&#x92;&#8201;&#x94; And then they dance to it, while R.K.O.&#x92;s arrangers and orchestrators reprise its key themes over and over, until &#x93;The Continental&#x94; (music by Con Conrad, lyrics by Herb Magidson) was practically assured of being the first-ever &#x93;best song&#x94; recipient at the Academy Awards. This is what came to pass. Beautiful music. Dangerous rhythm.</p><p> This year, the academy nominated a mere pair of tunes in the original song category. One is the Sergio Mendes samba &#x93;Real in Rio,&#x94; the highlight of the animated feature &#x93;Rio.&#x94; The other, the mock-soul-searcher &#x93;Man or Muppet,&#x94; comes from &#x93;The Muppets,&#x94; which means we have come to the part of this sentence in which we remind people that back in 1979, &#x93;The Rainbow Connection&#x94; (from &#x93;The Muppet Movie&#x94;) lost out to &#x93;It Goes Like It Goes&#x94; from &#x93;Norma Rae.&#x94;</p><p> Peculiarly, this year&#x92;s two nominated original songs reportedly will not be performed during the Feb. 26 Oscars telecast. This is strange. At a time in pop culture when song and dance cannot be escaped, it is strange for nominated songs to go unsung on the stage of the Kodak Theatre. I mean, half the reason I got interested in the Oscars as a kid was because of the James Bond theme production numbers. Apparently, the no-performance decision is not final, though.</p><p> Some years the academy gets the best-song award right, even if the song&#x92;s not precisely daisy fresh. In the old days, a so-called &#x93;trunk&#x94; song might end up in a movie and become a hit. Take the 1949 winner, &#x93;Baby, It&#x92;s Cold Outside,&#x94; by the great Frank Loesser. Political incorrectness aside &#x97; many have taken issue with the alleged date-rape undertones of Loesser&#x92;s duet, though I don&#x92;t hear it quite that way, and the lyric &#x93;Say, what&#x92;s in this drink?&#x94; didn&#x92;t mean the same thing then &#x97; the song has become a classic, a standard. </p><p>It was introduced to a wide audience by way of the MGM film &#x93;Neptune&#x92;s Daughter.&#x94; But Loesser and his first wife had been singing &#x93;Baby, It&#x92;s Cold Outside&#x94; for years, at parties.</p><p> More recently, the lovely ballad &#x93;Falling Slowly&#x94; from the movie &#x93;Once&#x94; stirred up a little controversy, in part because the tune turned up on other films&#x92; soundtracks around the time of &#x93;Once&#x92;s&#x94; general release. Still, the academy ruled the song written by Glen Hansard and Marketa Irglova to be eligible for an Oscar win. Which it won. And deserved to.</p><p> Some years the Oscars were spoiled for choice, and still managed to vote the wrong one into posterity. The 1937 crop included &#x93;They Can&#x92;t Take That Away From Me&#x94; by the Gershwins and &#x93;That Old Feeling&#x94; by Sammy Fain and Lew Brown. The winner that year? &#x93;Sweet Leilani&#x94; from &#x93;Waikiki Wedding,&#x94; which sounds like every other South Seas Tin Pan Alley number ever written.</p><p> On the other hand: In 1944, who could pick a winner among &#x93;Swinging on a Star&#x94; and &#x93;I&#x92;ll Walk Alone&#x94; and &#x93;Long Ago (and Far Away)&#x94;? The &#x93;Going My Way&#x94; favorite, &#x93;Swinging on a Star&#x94; by James Van Heusen and Johnny Burke, came out on top that year. As did &#x93;Going My Way.&#x94;</p><p> Some years, a Broadway-derived sound takes the cake. Any one of Stephen Sondheim&#x92;s superb &#x93;Dick Tracy&#x94; pastiche numbers deserved an Oscar in its year, but only &#x93;Sooner or Later&#x94; was nominated (and won). A year later, the celebrated Alan Menken/Howard Ashman score for Disney&#x92;s animated &#x93;Beauty and the Beast&#x94; was Oscar-recognized for the title tune. </p><p>Several years later, when Phil Collins won for &#x93;You&#x92;ll Be in My Heart&#x94; from &#x93;Tarzan&#x94; &#x97; over &#x93;Blame Canada&#x94; from &#x93;South Park: Bigger, Longer & Uncut&#x94; and Randy&#x92;s Newman&#x92;s &#x93;Toy Story 2&#x94; theme, &#x93;When She Loved Me&#x94; &#x97; I wonder if even Collins approved.</p><p> This year I&#x92;m rooting for the song that probably won&#x92;t win, the Mendes samba from &#x93;Rio,&#x94; partly because in this ridiculously nostalgic Oscar year it reminds me of a nominated tune from 1934. It came from another Astaire/Rogers picture, &#x93;Flying Down to Rio,&#x94; released prior to &#x93;The Gay Divorcee&#x94; and representative of the late pre-Production Code era, when innuendo ran rampant and Rogers&#x92; outfits really were something to see through.</p><p> The song was &#x93;The Carioca,&#x94; by Vincent Youmans, Edward Elischu and Gus Kahn. &#x93;Say, have you seen the Carioca? It&#x92;s not a foxtrot or a polka.&#x94; If that&#x92;s not an Oscar-worthy lyric, then all I can leave you with is the winner of the 2005 Oscar for best original song: &#x93;It&#x92;s Hard Out Here for a Pimp.&#x94; A deserving winner, I might add. Some years it&#x92;s a Broadway-ized show tune; other times, it&#x92;s the newest fake dance craze. And sometimes it&#x92;s pimps and krunk and why not?

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